ANARCHY COOKBOOK VERSION 2000: Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach

Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the procedure that follows.

First off, you must obtain:

1.A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
2.A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
3.A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals)
4.Potassium chloride(sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores)

Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.

Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0øC. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.

Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called "fractional crystallization". These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to drive off all moisture.


Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above) into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed.

Allow all gasoline to evaporate. Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used. The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides, etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME caution at all times while performing the processes in this article.

You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by writing:

Information Publishing Co.
Box 10042
Odessa, Texas 79762

ANARCHY COOKBOOK VERSION 2000: Credit Card Fraud

For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now:

With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is worth it.

Step One: Getting the credit card information

First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbon-less transaction sheet, making things much more difficult. This is where your phone comes in handy.

First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much information as possible about them. Then, during business hours, call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department. We have been informed that your credit card may have been used for fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course, use your imagination! Believe it or not, many people will fall for this ploy and give out their credit information.

Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you should be able to decipher the information given.

Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies

Card example:

[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:

MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has numbers XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00, even if the card holder is broke.

[Mastercard]
5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:

XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering process. The first date is when the card was new, and the second is when the card expires. The most frequent number combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted lists, so check these first.

[Visa]
4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
MM/YY MM/YY*VISA
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:

Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or followed with a special code. These codes are as follows:

[1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card
[2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card
[3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card

Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to use. Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000 XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although they are usually covered for large purchases.

Step Three: Testing credit

You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address, most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is a special number you call that will give you an address from a phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number, give the credit information, and then give what is called a "Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number, merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau will tell you if it is OK, and will give you an authorization number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely, for it serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided not to charge it. Of course, some will not allow this. Remember at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with a customer when he/she "cancels".


Step Four: The drop

Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are typical drop sites:

[1] An empty house
An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS. I work days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the area. Do so, until you find one
that suits your needs.
[2] Rent A Spot
U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and signed for. End your space when the package arrives.
[3] People's houses
Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there. Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable way if you keep calm when talking to the people.

Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious characters and cars that have not been there before.

Step Five: Making the transaction

You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the necessary billing information, and a good drop site.

The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses. It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call, don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of shipping, and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an order. If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address. Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up. Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage investigation on the order.

If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be careful, and try not to order anything over $500. In some states, UPS requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a couple of years. Good luck!

ANARCHY COOKBOOK VERSION 2000: Counterfeiting Money

Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a book on photo offset printing, for this is the method used in counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with this method of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you.

Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which involves etching a metal block. Since etching a metal block is impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes into the process.

Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece of masking material (usually orange in color). The stripped negatives, commonly called "flats", are then exposed to a lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker.

The burned plates are then developed with the proper developing chemical. One at a time, these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press.

The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick 360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of the back side. After developing them and letting them dry, take them to a light table. Using opaque on one of the portrait sides, touch out all the green, which is the seal and the serial numbers. The back side does not require any retouching, because it is all one color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered (lined up correctly) on the flats. By the way, every time you need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait side, cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from the flat replacing it with the new one.

Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color: black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a lithographic plate and etch three marks on it. These marks must be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges. Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then, take 1 of the flats and place it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate. Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you have already burned. Burn that, and do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark. Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate plate).


Develop all three plates. You should now have 4 images on each plate with an equal space between each bill.

The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for most situations. The paper to use should have a 25% rag content. By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does the job well. Take the paper and load it into the press. Be sure to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the black plate (the plate without the serial numbers). Wrap it around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while that is printing, mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the serial number ink. You also need to add black to the back side. Experiment until you get it right. Now, clean the press and print the other side. You will now have a bill with no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different numbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount of money by now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine US bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills. Also, it is a good idea to make them look used. For example, wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc.

As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset printing, most of the information in this article will be fairly hard to understand. Along with getting a book on photo offset printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA". It is about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of showing how to counterfeit. A good book on the subject is "The Poor Man's James Bond".

If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other method available for counterfeiting: The Canon color laser copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color, including US currency. But, once again, the main problem in counterfeiting is the paper used. So, experiment, and good luck!

Difference between Proof and Evidence

Definition of proof: The evidence or argument that compels the mind to accept an assertion as true.

Definition of evidence: The documentary or oral statements and the material objects admissible as testimony in a court of law.

Most people think that proof and evidence are the same concepts, but they are not. As stated supra, evidence is the material information that the court relies on to base the facts. Proof on the other hand is when the court decides if the evidence is proven or not. The evidence has to be in accordance to the law to prove a fact.

There are two different types of proof: prima facie proof and conclusive proof.

Prima facie proof is a fact that at first sight seems to be proven, but may later be disproven. Conclusive proof is proof that is indisputable, it is conclusive.

Responsibilities of an Investigator at the Mortuary

• The clothing of the victim (deceased) has to be described in detail and photographs have to be taken of each of the pieces of clothing.
• Other items found on the body (wallet, cell phone, etc.) along with the deceased’s clothing has to seized and given to the exhibit officer.
• The deceased’s blood must be drawn and in accordance to the exhibit officer’s prescribed manner be dispatched to the Laboratory.
• Under the supervision of the pathologist, photographs must be taken of the deceased’s body.
• If a body is unidentifiable, fingerprints must be taken from the body.
• Statements or particulars must be taken from ambulance drivers and of the drivers of the mortuary vans.
• Relatives must be taken to the mortuary to identify the deceased.
• In case there are many bodies, a video must be made and shown to relatives in groups in order to save time.

Solvability Factors

There are 12 Solvability Factors namely:

1. Witnesses to a crime
2. Knowledge of a suspect’s name
3. Knowledge where a suspect can be located
4. Description of a suspect
5. Identification of a suspect
6. Property with identifiable characteristics, marks, or numbers, so it can be traced
7. A significant modus operandi
8. Significant physical evidence
9. Description that identifies the vehicle used by the suspect
10. Positive results from a crime scene evidence search
11. Belief that a crime may be solved with reasonable additional investigative effort
12. Opportunity for, but one person to have committed the crime

Dying Declaration

According toe Hiemstra’s Suid-Afrikaanse Strafproses 4th edition Article 223 regarding dying declarations (sterfbed verklaring), a person who is conscious and knows that death is imminent may give a verbal or written statement (that does not have to be under oath) concerning what he or she believes to be the cause or circumstances of death that can be introduced into evidence during a trial in certain cases.

Such a statement would normally be barred as hearsay but may nonetheless be admitted as evidence in certain kinds of cases because it constituted the last words of a dying person. Nemo moriturus preasumitur mentiri means a dying person is presumed not to lie. A dying declaration is considered credible and trustworthy evidence based upon the general belief that most people who know that they are about to die do not lie. As a result, it is an exception to the Hearsay rule, which prohibits the use of a statement made by someone other than the person who repeats it while testifying during a trial, because of its inherent untrustworthiness.

In the case of R v Nzobi 1932 WLD 98, the dying person said in a written statement “Having the fear of death upon me and no hope of recovery”, the court investigated the matter and found that the dying person still had hope of recovery, and the statement became inadmissible in court.

So, the court has to investigate the use of words and the circumstances to determine the trustworthiness of a dying declaration. The statement is not allowed to be made with information seeking questions, and a witness has to be present.

Lastly, it is not necessary to give the ipsissima verba, the exact words as in R v Baloi 1949 1 SA 491.

My suggestions is that a dying declaration be taken before the person dies, with a witness present, the statement be given in court as evidence, and then that the court has to investigate the declaration and the circumstances, so that the accused may be found guilty.